Deeply embroiled in Greek and Middle Eastern cuisines, traditionally the meat of sacrifice and the center of religious Easter Sunday feasts, lamb has experienced rather fleeting success in North America. Embracing the cultural diversity of Canada, where amazing ethnic dishes are available, the majority of us have only tasted the savory richness of lamb in Indian curries or while devouring Greek souvlakis. Slow braised lamb shanks make the upscale dining ranks, appearing on menus across the country and, for some, this is the epitome of winter-warming comfort food to savor at a restaurant.

Lamb is the meat from a sheep that is less than one year old (you can also find Genuine Canadian Spring Lamb from sheep less than 2-3 months old). Although we are not huge lamb consumers by nature, save the large ethnic populations in our major cities, the Canadian industry actually obtains about 50% of its lamb from a predominately domestic market (the other from New Zealand and Australia imports). Most of our sheep population is located in Alberta, Ontario, and Quebec. Stephen Alexander of Cumbrae’s in Toronto has noticed that lamb is becoming more mainstream than it was when he first opened his butcher shop 12 years ago. Stephen Alexander is a butcher with an unequivocal passion for meat, which makes the phenomenal success of his business very understandable. At a moments notice he can talk in great length about any of the products sourced from the Cumbrae Farms starting with the feeding and breeding, to the selling and preparing.

The Cumbrae Farms are mostly cooperatives consisting of a few small farms where the feeding and breeding is of consistent quality. Nearly 80% of Cumbrae’s lamb is Dorset pure-bred or Dorset-Suffolk cross and comes from the Haldimand County Region in Ontario where the lamb is fed alfalfa hay, corn, barley, and soybean. Cumbrae’s also carries lamb from the Ile Verte region in Quebec. Renowned for grazing on the salty marshes located near the mouth of the St. Lawrence River (the farmers even hay the grass so the same feed is available through the winter) this lamb, referred to as pre-sel, has a delicate natural sea salt taste. Describing his clientele Stephen remarks, “we have a real cult following for the lamb” - no doubt considering the quality.

Perhaps it is time to reconsider serving lamb, not only because it is produced in our own backyard, but because it is very tender since the muscles in the meat have not been well developed or used, delicate in flavor, and just so versatile.

Nearly every part of the lamb can be used, and as with all meats the cut often benefits from and determines the cooking method – leg, loin, ribs, shoulder and shank are usually roasted, and chops from these are broiled; breast, shank, and neck are best braised. “At Cumbrae’s the butterflied leg of lamb is hugely popular because it is a great way of feeding a bunch of people at a reasonable price. We have it available natural or marinated and recommend that our customers treat it like a thick steak and BBQ it in the summer- you can do a 5 or 6 pounder”.

It is the rack of lamb, however, that holds a certain red-carpet experience, reminiscent of luxurious ocean liners and Parisian hotels. “Customers will have a lamb dish in a restaurant and then come in and buy it to try at home. For the Canadian palate, it is important that the meat comes from a young lamb, so the flavor is light and the texture juicy. Lamb has a very distinct flavor so if you serve older or stronger lamb it will be a turn-off.” Rack of a lamb is a classic dish that never fails to appeal. French cut bones facing skyward, the meat just the right side of pink, succulent and divine to the taste (French cut means the excess fat has been trimmed and the bones scraped clean to expose the ribs – a good butcher often sells them French cut or he can prepare it for you). “Look for marbling in the eye and a nice fat cover. These are the keys to a good rack of lamb. Don’t buy lamb that is too lean and sloppy because it will be chewy. Purchase lamb from a good butcher with a good reputation” Stephen advises.

Rack of lamb welcomes seasonings from light (olive oil and herbs, marinades) to heavy (glazes, mustard, and crusts), so there are number of options for flavoring them. “I like to prepare rack of lamb with a paste made using good quality olive oil, sea salt, course ground peppercorns, crushed garlic, a dash of balsamic, and Dijon or grainy mustard. You can even throw in a sprig of rosemary - everyone likes it with lamb. Rub the paste on the outside and “marinate” it for 30 minutes. I cook it at 425 degrees for 25 minutes – 425 degrees to brown the outside. It is best served medium-rare, medium at the most. You want to enhance the flavor but not overpower it because when you are spending money for a rack of lamb you don’t want to hide the flavor”.

General Cooking Instructions: Sear the rack first in a large skillet until all sides are well browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Place in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for 17 minutes depending upon desired doneness (17 minutes should make them medium-rare and it is recommended not to overcook the rack, leaving the meat slightly pink). Let stand for up to 10 minutes (best tented in foil) before serving. Alternately you can follow Stephen Alexander’s method of a 425 degree oven for 25 minutes.

Marinades:
Olive oil, garlic and herbs – marinate the lamb overnight in a mixture of chopped garlic, rosemary and thyme, and olive oil Red wine – marinate the lamb overnight in red wine, Dijon mustard, soy sauce, chopped garlic , oil, crushed black pepper, and dried thyme leaves
Glazes:
These should be applied after the racks have been seared on all sides and just prior to finishing the cooking process in the oven
Apricot glaze – dissolve apricot preserves in hot water, add garlic, lemon juice, butter and chilies and reduce to a thick sauce. Brush over lamb racks. Honey glaze – soften shallots and garlic. Remove from heat add lemon juice, honey, and chopped fresh thyme Orange and ginger glaze – combine orange marmalade, fresh grated ginger and brandy in a small pot and cook to a thick sauce.
Crusts:
These should be applied after the racks have been seared on all sides and just prior to finishing the cooking process in the oven
Mustard and Herb – Dijon mustard and mixed chopped herbs such as parsley, mint, chives and tarragon (apply this after the racks are fully cooked for more a vibrant flavor). Alternatively, add breadcrumbs to the mustard and herb mixture.
Plating: plate the rack whole, 3 to 4 chops per rack for each person, for maximum effect or cut them into 2 double chops and interlace the bones. Serve with potatoes: roasted garlic mashed or gratin daphinoise
Cumbrae’s serves the Greater Toronto Area (GTA) with two locations:
481 Church Street, Toronto 416-923-5600
26 King Street West, Dundas ON 905.628.4332
Cumbrae’s delivery service is available only in the Toronto Area but consideration is being given to other locales based on the numerous inquiries they have been receiving. Perhaps if we’re lucky it will be available in other areas in the near future. Try this at home: Pine-nut and herb crusted rack of lamb